Because the bitter Orange tree produces fragile white blooms which are the source of both Orange Blossom and Neroli oil, two essential oils used by the perfume and bodycare industries. Rumour has it that Neroli oil is even added to Coca Cola’s famously secret recipe!
The bitter orange tree (Citrus Aurantium) is widely grown in the western parts of India, eastern Africa and across the Himalayan mountain chain. Neroli oil has a beautiful, fresh and green fragrance while orange blossom has a deeper and sweeter composition that is intense and intoxicating.
Orange Blossom and Neroli the power of these two essential oils, is that they can enhance many odour controlling air freshener products and add a fresh and floral touch to classical perfume formulations by scent marketing companies. The bitter Orange Tree produces three different essential oils – Bitter orange oil is derived from the peel of the ripe fruit, petitgrain oil is pressed from the leaves, and Neroli oil is distilled from the flowers of the tree. Petitgrain is chemically distinct from Neroli and possesses a woodier aroma. Bergamot orange (citrus bergamia) is a closely related cultivar. The peel of the bergamot orange fruit is used to produce bergamot essential oil, which is used to flavour Earl Grey tea, Turkish delight, and marmalade. Orange oil extracted from the peel of the sweet orange fruit (Citrus sinensis) is used in an assortment of beauty products, cleaners, and flavourings. Of all these, neroli is the most valuable. And the fragrances will depend on the origin of the flower – an orange flower from Morocco will not smell like one from California or France.
While they do contain diverse olfactory features, the main distinguishing point between them lies in the process of extraction. Orange blossom absolute is derived by solvent extraction using alcohol washing and filtering while Neroli is obtained by the steam distillation of freshly hand-picked flowers.
Extracts from the bitter orange flower are very expensive and, in most cases, can only be afforded in small amounts. Neroli is almost always diluted because of its prohibitive cost. Consider that it takes one ton of bitter orange blossoms to make one quart of neroli oil! The flowers are so delicate that even slight bruising can release their oil.
Fortunately, a little Neroli oil can last quite a while and it blends well with other essential oils. Oils frequently blended with Neroli include benzoin oil, geranium oil, lavender oil, jasmine oil, and rosemary oil. Neroli also blends well with other citrus oils.
Neroli oil is pale-yellow in colour, has a sweet, distinctive citrus scent and is widely used in perfumery and aromatherapy. Unlike Orange Blossom, Neroli’s fragrance is marked by sharper, more delicate tones with a top note that is pleasantly bitter, fresh, sweet and herbal in nature. Its fresh, floral aroma has become an iconic perfume ingredient.
A curative essential oil
Neroli is a powerful and curative essential oil that has been used for centuries to heal the body and the mind. It is believed that Neroli might have originated centuries ago in ancient Persia, where it was used to perfume royalty and palace walls. From there it spread to the Mediterranean via the Moors of North Africa. It is said that the word, Neroli, may be derived either from the Arabic word for orange, naranj, or from the Sanskrit word, nagaran. By the end of the 12th century, bitter orange trees were cultivated everywhere in Seville, Spain, for the purpose of producing this highly desirable essential oil.
According to legend, Neroli oil derives its moniker from Nerola in Lazio, Italy, and particularly its 17th-century princess, Anna Marie-Anne de La Trémoille, wife of Prince Flavio Orsini. It was she who introduced the essence of bitter orange as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume both her gloves and her bath water. She loved the fragrance so much that she became known as “Princess Nerola.”
Used in bath water or as perfume applied to clothing and stationery, in 1709, a famous Italian perfume manufacturer named J. M. Farina, began selling a rich floral scent, which was a secret blend of bergamot, lavender, lemon, petitgrain, rosemary and neroli essential oils. He called the creation Eau de Cologne and the rest as they say is fragrant history.
Neroli oil has a unique chemical composition. The oil is composed of over thirty distinct compounds including nerolidol, alpha-terpineol, alpha-terpinyl acetate, and farnesol. Limonene, which is the most abundant compound in neroli oil, is used as a remedy for heartburn and acid reflux. Limonene, alpha-terpineol, and farnesol have also been evaluated for possible anticarcinogenic effects.
Because of its soothing effect on mood, Neroli oil is often used as an ingredient in aromatherapy applications. Some evidence suggests that Neroli oil has benefits for conditions like depression, anxiety, high blood pressure and headaches. Neroli oil can even promote normal sleep. That is why it is a relaxing massage oil.
When used in skin-care and hair products, Neroli oil is believed to treat oily skin, reduce signs of aging, and diminish the appearance of scars and stretch marks. The oil is nontoxic, won’t irritate, and is safe for sensitive skin. It moisturises dry skin and can be blended with other essential oils to relieve occasional itchiness and irritation that comes with psoriasis, eczema, and dermatitis. It offers benefits as a digestive aid and can help relieve bloating, gas, and diarrhea. Neroli oil may even support the endocrine system.
Rich in antioxidants, the oil combats free radicals, which can soothe acne-induced inflammation and redness. Neroli also softens and replenishes skin by locking in moisture while applied topically, bitter orange oil provides skin with a protective barrier to ensure a radiant and dewy complexion.
Production
Production of Neroli oil and Orange Blossom absolute concentrates are mainly in Tunisia, Morocco and Egypt. The Tunisian oil has the fresh floral note of orange flower and is reminiscent of freshly ironed linen. The Moroccan variety possesses the fresh floral sweetness of orange flower, but also has warm, green animal aspects. Egyptian neroli varieties are earthy, fresh, green and sharp. according to Dr Couic Marinier: “
Source: airscent.com
