Chef Michael Swamy, our food consultant, elucidates on why chefs need to reconnect with local farmers and vendors
We have had great food historians in India and a slew of grandmothers who have kept the tradition of verbally passing on culinary stories. The question is how do they share their stories? These are the ones we need to be looking to then for advice and to empower our chefs and the fraternity. There is a saying that when an elder person dies, a whole legacy of history is gone with them. It’s the time to capture those stories and protect our authentic cuisines for posterity and for change.
As Chefs, our aim is to feed people, but post-Covid-19 are we returning to a sustainable way of life? Are we planning menus on local and seasonal ingredients? Are we planning menus that have a positive effect on a person’s immunity level? How are we turning our free spaces into vegetable gardens and growing our own food?
Knowing one’s farmer and vendors will be more in vogue at the moment. Knowing where the produce comes from will be the norm. Smaller menus, local cuisines, sustainability. Less rail miles, less road miles for ingredients. I think Vegetarianism and Veganism will be more in focus.
Unlike in the US or in Europe where due to high expenses, a chef goes to the market and to farms and sources food ones self. That trend is starting in India and hopefully will bring about some change. There are chefs who are turning farmers and growing produce. At all the properties within the Pugdundee Resorts, at least 40% of the produce is grown inhouse, the rest coming from local farms nearby. Doing away with air-miles and becoming self sustainable and self reliant. The entire exercise is also getting the locals to see the business aspect of supplying to the lodges.
There is the story of a farmer who always won a prize for his best corn. He would give the seeds to his neighbours as well. His theory was that due to pollination and cross pollination his crop would always have the best and not get tainted had his neighbour’s seeds been bad. The change now is the sharing of knowledge and coming together to help each other out.
Chefs get associated with a brand due to social media and its stands one in good stead when the business is on the slide. Gordon Ramsay for example took almost 15 years for his restaurants to break even. Many high end restaurants are finding the road tough to break even. So chefs have recently started showcasing their vendors and helping their vendors sell their produce to their viewers and customers. It is a brilliant example of coexistence and promoting each other. This only happens when you are on a one to one basis with your vendors. At most hotels it’s the purchase manager who is in contact with a vendor. What about the chef, the one who actually uses the product. That link has gone and chefs need to rekindle that link in order to survive.
