A wax that is derived from a commonly grown marine microalga could be the next big thing in cosmetics and personal care products, thanks to a recent licence agreement between the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI), Western Washington University (WWU)—which jointly own the patents—and Upwell Cosmetics, a start-up materials company founded in Woods Hole, Mass.
While a cosmetics product might seem unusual for an oceanographic institution to be involved with, this license agreement allows practical research to reach the market for broad benefit to society. The patented product is poised to disrupt the beauty industry.
Microalgae are a valuable and innovative source of natural nutrients and bioactive compounds. The novel ingredient has the ability to replace petroleum-based waxes and other waxes in products like lipstick and lip balm, sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and deodorant. Notably, it creates new potential for the formulation of reef-safe sunscreen as studies also showed the algae wax boosted SPF and improved the quality of mineral sunscreen formulations on the skin.
“We believe this groundbreaking, microalgal wax has great potential to replace petroleum and animal-based wax in personal care products. The commercialization opportunity is overwhelming as brands race to reformulate using sustainable ingredients to meet consumer demand. Upwell Cosmetics is creating new possibilities for brands to eliminate concerning ingredients.” says Daniella Zakon, Co-Founder of Upwell Cosmetics.
Upwell Cosmetics
Upwell Cosmetics was founded by Daniella Zakon and Alexandra Dowling Lari. Zakon holds degrees in Marine Biology and Environmental Science plus Business. Zakon spent six years working abroad as an environmental entrepreneur in the international start-up space before moving back to the United States. Dowling Lari’s career spans the luxury beauty sector, with a pivot to sustainability in recent years, including roles at LVMH, Moda Operandi, and most recently Captain Blankenship.
Following consumer demand for ingredient transparency in their cosmetics, cosmetic brands and retailers are creating strict guidelines around ingredients that have been deemed unsafe, or “dirty”, leading to a push for ingredients that are ethically sourced, “clean”, “green”, or “blue”. Studies have found that the cosmetics industry will lead the environmental transition away from industry-wide fossil fuel use because it is the first oil-based sector that will get rid of petroleum oil in ingredients and packaging. Upwell Cosmetics will be one of the first ingredient suppliers to offer sustainability metrics on CO2 and water usage per batch of material.
“Algae are the true lungs of the planet and anything we can do to grow more of it can have huge environmental impact. If we get to make sustainable products alongside it, that’s even better,” says Zakon. Research shows microalgae in the ocean generates 50% of the oxygen humans need, absorbs roughly 25% of CO2 emissions and captures about 90% of excess heat. Growing the algae terrestrially in bioreactors takes only 10% of the land area of comparable crops.
In addition to the wax’s stacked environmental benefits, the ingredient has been consumer tested in studies with Gabriella Baki, director of the BSPS Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design Program and Associate Professor of Pharmaceutics at the University of Toledo, Ohio. Baki formulated lipsticks and organic sunscreens using alkenone waxes supplied by Christopher Reddy, a senior scientist at WHOI, and Gregory O’Neil, a professor of chemistry at WWU, who initiated and conceptualized the project. Testing validated the algae wax as a promising sustainable alternative for the cosmetic industry, biobase for organic sunscreens and an excellent structuring agent in lipsticks. Consumers preferred the lipstick formulated with the algae wax over the controls made with beeswax, plant wax, and petroleum wax. All findings were published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
